A Foam Cannon allows you to obtain high pressure water mixed with Snow Foam detergent, producing foam. The Foam Cannon has many design features to allow the user to spray varying distances while creating a wide range of consistencies of foam. By twisting the External Plastic Body/Nozzle (#5) you can create a wide fan flow or concentrated direct flow spray pattern by twisting the adjustable air intake knob (#4) you can increase or decrease the consistency of the foam produced.
Overall foam consistency or concentration can be regulated by using various concentrations of Snow Foam detergents in the Detergent Tank. It is important to note that the final consistency of foam of produced by the Foam Cannon is primarily determined by the type of Snow Foam detergent utilized in the detergent Tank as well as output rating (flow/discharge)of the high pressure washer *NB: All pressure washers will differ in actual output vs specified rated output on the box. Try varying types and concentrations of snow foam detergent to reach the desired foam results. Using warm water in the detergent tank assists with dilution and improves over-all foaming action.

• After use, fill detergent tank with clean water and run cannon for 2-3 minutes with the mixer dial (#4) “fully opened” to flush any soapy residue from filters and jets.
• Rinse out the spray head (#5 & #7), detergent bottle and suction tube (#9) with clean water before storing. Never store foam cannon with unused snow foam mixture in the detergent bottle.
• Use only recommended Snow Foam detergent as regular car shampoo will cause clogging. This will cause permanent damage to pressure washer and foam cannon attachment coupling.
• Dissemble and clean out stainless steel filter (#8) using the correct tools every few months depending on use to prevent clogging and to ensure optimal foaming.
• Take care to reassemble in order and to not damaging any parts to exactly restore the original conditions of the foam lance.

• Foam consistency drops over time. Disassemble and clean filter (#8), use high quality specialised Snow Foam detergents to ensure no clogging or parts (#8, #3 , #9). Clean and de-scale if necessary. *NB: There are a number of video guides available on YOUTUBE.
• High pressure washer intermittent cut-out or poor flow out the front of the cannon. Stop operation immediately. Ensure no clogging or parts (#8 , #3, #9) . Clean debris/obstructions and filters if necessary.
• Cracked plastic coupling (#1) causing water to eject from the lance. Blockage in orifice (#3) due to debris in water supply, poor maintenance or incorrect snow foam detergent which has caused a break in the plastic coupling due to pressure build up, install replacement coupling for your specific pressure washer.
• Leaking coupling (#1) at attachment to pressure washer lance . The o-ring inside of coupling (#1) has come out and is most probably stuck to your inside of your lance/gun. This is a common problem on some Karcher High pressure washers. Locate the O-ring and re-seat it into the coupling. Karcher O-Ring replacement guide
• Only water is is being ejected from foam canon (#7) no detergent when mixer dial is on max : Blockage has occurred in the detergent pickup nipple (#9) due to poor maintenance, dirt in detergent mix or the use of a poor quality snow foam detergent causing build up. Clear out debris/obstruction from detergent pickup nipple (#9) using a pin or paperclip.

Foam cannons are a fairly simple device and if maintained correctly will give you many years of service. Using cheap, poor quality snow foam detergents are the main cause of foam cannon failure and cost your more in the long run.

At CrazyDetailer we stock a wide range of high quality foam cannons, parts and  Snow Foams. Check out our selection here

• How to Repair and Clean Snow Foam Lance
• How To: Repair & Service Your Snow Foam Lance in 5 Minutes!
• How To: Snow foam lance repair: Steps to disassemble and rebuild.
• How To Upgrade Your Snow Foam Lance For Thicker Foam!
• How do I check and change the O-rings on my Kärcher Pressure Washer

Cleaning your vehicles windows will not only give your ride a classy look but will also enhance and increase the visibility when driving. Dirty windows reflect poorly on your car, yet they tend to get very dirty especially if you drive daily. Taking time to clean your vehicles windows will lead to a substantial aesthetic improvement.

1.  Always clean your windows last
   • You can prevent contaminating your windows with smudges and grime by cleaning the rest of the car before you clean the windows.
2. Clean windows in the shade if possible
   • If your car is too hot, it could cause the cleaner or water being used to evaporate too quickly. This will lead to extra work
3. Use a dedicated automotive glass cleaner
   • Ammonia based window house-hold cleaners can be damaging to tint and can dry out the rubber seals around the windows. It is always best to use a specialised automotive glass cleaner.
4. Clean front and rear windows first.
   • Due to angle and size, these windows can be the hardest to clean. Spray 2-3 sprits of glass cleaner onto the window itself and use a dedicated CrazyDetailer streak-free glass microfiber towel to work in and buff off the glass cleaner to a streak-free result.
   • Spray glass cleaner onto your streak-free glass cleaning microfiber first to prevent the overspray of glass cleaner on the dash and interior trim.
5. Target stubborn bug splatter or contaminants.
   • This could result in the use of a very strong bug cleaner or a clay bar.
6. Roll down, side windows
   • The very top of the side windows is a common area that is missed when cleaning windows. Spray your glass cleaner to the side of the window and use a streak-free microfiber towel to buff off any residue.
7. Clean wiper blades to finish.
   • Use a mild detergent to clean the build-up on the wiper blades so when in use no smudges or dirt will be in contact with the windshield

Cleaning water spots

If after the use of a dedicated glass cleaner there are still water spots, one could use a dedicated Glass polish, Water spots remover or a mineral deposit remover.

Pro Tips

1. Always wipe the interior and exterior side of the glass in different directions so that you are able to identify the side that requires extra cleaning if needs be.
2. Apply medium to hard pressure when cleaning windows.
3. Always use clean fish bone weave streak-free microfiber towels to prevent the spread of streaks.

Microfiber is the single most used tool in auto detailing and car care and if washed properly it could last hundreds of washes

Cleaning with a microfiber towel is very versatile, economical and eco-friendly when using a soft plush microfiber towel on your vehicles paint or glass, it acts as a magnet towards dust and dirt which clings onto the bacteria and unwanted debris. These magical tools will need to be cleaned when dirty. Learning the proper way to care for microfibers is a must if you would like to reuse them with the same effectiveness as from when they were brand new. Take note that,  not all microfibre towels are created equally, cheaper supermarket-bought microfibre towels tend to be of a lower weight and quality and will not last as long as high quality detailing grade microfibre towels.

When washing a microfiber cloth there are 4 main rules:

• DO NOT USE FABRIC SOFTENERS
• DO NOT USE ANY WASHING POWDERS
• DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE HEAT OR IRON
• NO NOT WASH WITH OTHER LAUNDRY

Washing Microfiber cloths in a washing machine:

• Wash microfiber cloths separately from other fabrics or materials as microfibers are non- linting.
• Wash on a warm setting with a very gentle detergent.
• Once the cycle has been completed leave the microfiber cloths to air dry in a dust-free area.

Washing Microfiber cloths by hand:

• Let the dirty microfiber cloths soak in a warm bucket of water with a mild detergent, use your hands to help agitate and loosen the dirt and grime so that is can be released from the towel.
• Rinse well and set it aside to air dry in a dust-free area.

Storage:

• Store your cleaned microfiber towels in ziplock bags or plastic containers to ensure they do not attract dust or become contaminated by any particles that may cause scratching.

Pro Tip:

• Never cross-contaminate your microfiber towels, use each towel for a single purpose eg. never use a towel allocated for polish/compound removal for wax removal as this will cause hazing due to the leftover compound/polish residue still trapped in the towel.

At Crazydetailer we stock only the highest quality detailing grade microfiber towels.

Clay Bar Tips:

• Listening to your clay bar can also give you a good indication if the surface is clean or still has contamination.
• Some people prefer to re-wash their vehicle after using the clay bar to remove any missed clay lubricant.
• If your towel begins to streak when removing excess clay lubrication, flip it over to a dry section or use a fresh towel.
• Use plenty of clay lube to ensure smooth movement of clay bar.
• Do not apply the clay lube in direct sun or to a warm surface.
  

After Using a Clay Bar:
The next step in the detailing process is polishing your paint. Polishing will remove imperfections in your paint such as swirl marks, scratches, water spots, oxidation and more. This is the part of the detailing process that the most dramatic results can be achieved.

Correct Washing and Drying

can be the most overlooked step. However, in reality, is one of the most important steps. Many of the imperfections in your paint (scratches, swirl marks, water spots, etc.) are caused due to improper washing and drying techniques. Our goal is to teach you how to effectively remove contamination while minimizing the possibility of creating more imperfections in your paint.

Recommended Washing & Drying Products:

• 1 x Quality Wash Mitt
• 1 x Wash sponge (useful for wheels)
• Quality Car shampoo (ph balanced)
• 1 x Quality Waffle Weave Drying Towel
• 1 x Synthetic Chamois
• 2x Wash Buckets (2 Bucket Method)
• Water Supply and Hose pipe.
• Bug and Tar Degreaser

Why do I need these products you may ask? We strongly encourage using a wash mitt PLUS wash sponge for many reasons. The main reason is your lower panels, front and rear bumpers, wheels and wheel wells get significantly dirtier than the rest of your vehicle and you do not want to be using the same mitt that just removed large particles of tar to touch your roof/bonnet. Allocating the sponge just for those heavily contaminated areas is a smart move because you will not be using a contaminated wash mitt on your delicate paint. Using one mitt throughout is one major factor why people create swirls during the wash phase. Another reason we suggest using the sponge for heavy soiled areas is that if you use one wash mitt for the entire vehicle, the life span of the mitt will be that much shorter due to heavy build up in one mitt. A heavily contaminated mitt requires you to purchase mitts more frequently and creates more risk to your paint.

A quality lubricating shampoo is crucial when trying to safely remove contamination. Without proper lubrication you would be pushing dirt, pollen, tar, etc. across your paint and causing many imperfections in your clear coat. Properly lubricated shampoos will help lift contamination from the surface, creating a slick surface for easy contamination removal. A quality shampoo should also have the proper conditioners for your paint unlike dish soap. Dish washing liquid, such as Sunlight, will remove previous layers of wax and  can dry out your paint, dry out and discolor plastic, vinyl and rubber trim, and is harmful to your clear coat.
Sunlight is great for dishes and doesn’t belong anywhere near your car . Shampoos with conditioners work well because they can clean your freshly sealed or waxed vehicle without removing this protection.

Investing in high-quality drying towels will not only save you time during the drying process while minimizing the possibility of adding swirls. Our towel of choice is a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel. This design has a small nap to pull contamination away from the surface as well as hold large amounts of water in its pockets. In some cases, you will only need
one of these towels to dry your entire vehicle assuming you follow our helpful tips and techniques (which will be explained in just a moment) during the drying process. It is the safest product to minimize the possibility of adding swirls to your clear coat. It’s also essential that your drying towel stays as clean as possible because dragging a dirty towel across the paint can add swirls and very fine scratches. Make sure you don’t use the same Waffle Weave to dry areas that were not cleaned during the washing process like door jambs. For this, you will use your old trusty chamois. Two 5/10 litre wash buckets are a must for any wash day. The reasoning will be described in further detail as we get into the how-to part of the tutorial, but one will be filled with water and suds and the second one with just water.

Water supply and the hose is pretty obvious but should not be overlooked. Flooding the surface of your vehicle is the best thing for minimizing the chance of adding imperfections to your paint so plenty of water will be necessary for pre-wash, rinse and final sheet drying. We strongly advise against using a High-pressure hose on your paintwork. Firstly it’s NOT necessary as proper washing techniques outweigh the benefit of “blasting” the dirt away. With anything regarding car care, always go with the LEAST aggressive method to limit damage. If you really have too, you can use it to blast dirt from your wheel wells and undercarriage.

Let us start by addressing some proper procedures to follow prior to actually washing the vehicle. First, find an area to work in with plenty of shade. With the sun beating on hot soapy water, it will dry before you can completely wash the entire car. this can cause water etching and spots on your vehicles paint. This will add more time in your routine removing them especially if you are just washing and drying for maintenance and not planning on doing a full routine. The paint and wheels should be cool to
the touch prior to washing. Next step, take a look at your attire, no jeans, no belts, no buttons, no rivets, no zippers, and no jewellery or other potentially hazardous objects. You may ask why, but the reasoning is pretty simple, they all will easily scratch your paint’s surface even with very minimal pressure. Also at this time ensure that all windows are completely up and doors, bonnet and boot are completely closed.

Prep Stage:

Make sure the buckets you going to use are completely clean, so rinse them off properly before each use. Fill one wash bucket about 3/4 full of water and the remaining 1/4 full of suds. Fill up the second wash bucket about 1/2 full of water.

Washing:

Rinse down an area of the vehicle that you plan on washing. Start from the top of the vehicle and work your way down. Also, work in sections such as front fenders and bonnet, or passenger side and half of the roof. Walk around your vehicle and pre-treat any areas that have a lot of contamination, such as bug splatter, tar, and other road grime that may be difficult to remove, with a paint-safe degreaser/bug tar remover. Allow the degreaser to sit on the contaminated surface for a few minutes (see manufacturers suggestion)

Dip your wash mitt into the clean water first and give it a good rinse. Now dip it in your soapy mix and start from the top, wash the roof, remember not to put the dirty mitt back in the soapy mix but to always rinse in the clean water first, that way you can be sure you not spreading the same dirt and grit to the other panels which naturally reduces swirl marks. Wash the top half of the car first, and only the top half of the panels all around. Once the entire top half is washed, use the separate wash sponge to do all the lower half of the car, remember this is where most of the heavy dirt and grit can be found.

Once the entire vehicle has been washed, rinse it thoroughly from top to bottom. Now remove the spray nozzle from the hose. Starting from the top of the vehicle sheet free flowing water from the hose off of the vehicle. You should begin to notice less water accumulation on the surface compared to just rinsing off the vehicle. When working down the sides of the vehicle, move the hose from left to right while getting lower and lower, this will ensure the water floods off of the vehicle and will cut your drying time
down considerably. This method takes a bit of practice but if you keep at it, it gets easier.

Drying:

After the vehicle has been sheeted off using the technique described above, take out your waffle weave. Open all doors and boot lid, to allow water to drip while you drying. This way you don’t end up getting the water on your paint AFTER drying it. Blot-dry any large pools of water with your drying towel. This will help get the towel damp which can increase its ability to absorb. Continue around the vehicle lightly wiping off any remaining water on your vehicle. Give the vehicle a final wipe down to ensure there is no water left on the vehicle. The beauty of the micro-fiber waffle weave is it leaves no water spots or streaking like a normal chamois. So if you use on your windows, you don’t have to come back to polish the outer glass again. Once you are done with the entire car, use the chamois to dry the door jams and wheels.

After Washing & Drying Your Vehicle:

Remember to keep your washing equipment clean always. So once you done with the wash and dry. Rinse out the wash sponge, wash mitt, and chamois so that the next wash it will be clean and ready for use. Depending on the condition of the waffle weave it may require cleaning after a few washes.

 

What Products do I Need?

One of the most common questions that we get at Crazydetailer is …
“I want to take care of my car, but I don’t know where to start !”

Logging on to the shop you can easily be overwhelmed by the sheer volume and variety of detailing products. For those who know what they want this is a utopia, but for those just starting out, it can be a bit intimidating. To simplify things I will break down what you need into categories and sort them in order of importance.

There is basically 4 Steps to a maintenance cycle.

STEP 1: The Wash Process (Weekly)

We cannot emphasis the importance of this step. The first thing that people reach for when heading for “premium” products is to seek the BEST WAX! If you’ve felt the same, don’t feel bad, I went through the same process. My thinking back then was … wax is what gives you the SHINE! That’s what is all about? Isn’t it? Now look at it this way, you wax your car once every 6-8 weeks, BUT you WASH your car every week. So what is the use of using a good wax, if you going to strip it all off with a cheap shampoo or even worse … Dishwashing liquid! The riskiest stage of car care is the wash process. This is the point in your detail that has the most dirt on it, be it dust or road grime etc. and removing it means you have to be extra careful not to induce any scratches or swirl marks. If you not careful this just gets worse over time. A good shampoo provides lubricity, making the surface slick which allows your wash mitt to *glide* over the paint surface. The wash mitt picks up the dirt and pulls it away from the paint, which again reduces swirl marks. Then there’s the drying process, trying to convince a person to switch from a chamois to a waffle weave is generally very hard, until they TRY IT for themselves. The problem with a chamois is no matter how many times you wipe the surface, you reach the point where all you doing is just moving tiny water droplets around. When this dries it leaves tiny water spots. Think about it this way, when that dries on your windows, you have to follow up with a glass cleaner to remove it. A waffle weave on the windows leaves ZERO streaks which actually cuts down you drying time as well.

So, in summary, this is what you need for the wash process:

• Shampoo
• Wash mitt
• Waffle weave Drying Towel

Click here for everything needed for washing the drying.

STEP 2: Claying – Decontamination (+/- 6 Months)

Before the polishing process, it’s important that the bonded contaminants that can not be removed from polishing are removed. The quickest way to tell if your paint needs claying is to put your hand in a plastic bag, and then run that over a CLEAN paint surface. The plastic prevents your skin from “absorbing” the bumps (contaminates) in the paint, which means you FEEL everything. Try it out … you will be shocked! Read our How To Clay You Car Guide to see how it’s done.

All you need here is :

• Detailing Clay Bar
• Clay Lube

STEP 3: Polishing (+/- 3 Months)

The point of polish is clean and condition the paint. If claying removes contaminates that you can “feel”, then polishing is meant to remove contamination that you can see. It is most noticeable on a white car, as staining and dirt can be easily seen. A mild polish will remove oxidization, dirty stains and built-up grime leaving the paint surface looking cleaner, brighter which improves the depth and clarity of your paintwork. This alone improves the appearance of your paint tremendously. Due to the mild abrasive nature of a polish its not advisable to polish your paint too often. Once every 6 months is more than sufficient. Protecting your paint after polishing will prevent contaminants from building up,  This leaves the paint looking cleaner & brighter for longer.

Click here for polishes and glazes

STEP 4: Waxing / Sealing (Last Step Protection) (Monthly or as Required)

After all that hard work it is important to seal all that goodness in. This when you should be looking for a good wax and/or sealer. Understanding the difference between a wax and a sealer is important. I could go into depth regarding the differences between a wax and sealant but I’d rather keep it simple. A pure wax is generally a natural product made up of carnauba wax, beeswax etc. It will give you unmatched shine, but its endurance is not good as the strong south African sun breaks down the wax molecular structure quite easily. A sealant on the other hand is a synthetic product that lasts far longer than a tradional wax, on average a good est. is about 6 months. The shine that is produced is a more clinical, clear shine. Which why sealants look great on lighter metallic coloured cars, while carnauba is preferred for darker & solid colours like black, navy & reds.
Some details prefer to get the best of both worlds by applying a sealant first for protection, and then layer a wax as a topper for added shine. It comes down to personal preference in the end.

Click here for Waxes and Paint Sealants